Blinding rays of morning light bend with the whistling northerly winds as we point our dash east for the Mississippi River. It’s the day after Thanksgiving and despite the deceptively golden beams of light, it’s a chilly, frosty world out there! But what better vibes for launching into the orbit of all things Christmas?

We’re headed for the winsome town of Savanna, Illinois, a pocket-sized piece of Americana perched along the infamous Great River Road. It’s notably one of the greatest road trip routes in the USA, stringing its path from Canada to the Gulf of Mexico along some 3,000 miles that hug the banks of the Mississippi River.

For the weekend, we’re honing in on a micro portion of it, just 18 rural miles between Fulton and Savanna, Illinois.

Timber Lane Christmas Tree Farm

Our first stop lures us 7 miles off the path of the Great River Road into rolling hills dotted with nostalgic rows of picture-perfect evergreens. It’s the 4th generation, Holesinger family farm, officially known as Timber Lane Christmas Tree Farm. We follow a cluster of cars after the same prize we are; a fresh-cut Christmas tree.

Bundling up our bodies for the great pay-off, we shuffle past big white barns and grain bins before dispersing throughout the Christmas tree workshop. Rosy-cheeked guys and gals direct folks every which way: to the pre-cut trees barn, to the Christmas store, winter-clad kids to the porta-potties, and for the Hallmark-inclined like us, to the tree-cutting stations.

Simple but effective, we select a saw small enough for our 10-year old son and a tree wagon before heading off down the rows of short-needle conifers! Half the fun is scrutinizing and debating over at least a dozen trees until the perfect candidate suddenly presents itself, as if by magic, basking in the winter sun’s glow. Then the boys throw themselves on the ground, scooting beneath the lowest boughs, getting their gloves sticky with sap to scratch against the trunk until it breaks free.

Seven Eagles Resort Camp

My husband and the farmhands wrangle our 7-footer to the top of the cruiser before we jingle our way back to the Great River Road, looping north through Fulton and 20 miles more before arriving at our Mississippi River basecamp in Savanna, Illinois.

From Highway 84, you’d never guess the sanctuary waiting beyond the sea of parked RVs, a flashing slots sign, and the towering, wood-carved bear at Seven Eagles Resort Camp. But, there’s something special here! A dozen traditional lodging options (beyond camping) from tiny homes and cabins to motel rooms more adequately described as cabin suites!

The utter surprise of these hip, outdoorsy lodging options is paired with an epic “backyard” that spills right into the Mississippi River wetlands. And not the famously muddy, mucky industrial bits, but the pristine and protected parts known as the Upper Mississippi River National Wildlife & Fish Refuge.

Upper Mississippi River National Wildlife & Fish Refuge

Perhaps just as significant as the Great River Road, the Upper Mississippi River National Wildlife & Fish Refuge are federally protected lands currently celebrating their 100th birthday (1924-2024). This rather epic US Fish & Game conservation project spans a staggering 240,000 acres of floodplains and along 261 miles of river bordering Minnesota and Wisconsin before trailing all the way south to Moline, Illinois.

This area protects an impressive allotment of wildlife including 303 bird species, 119 species of fish, 51 mammals species, and 42 species of freshwater mussels. Since its creation, the refuge has gained worldwide recognition and is now listed as a Wetland of International Importance and a Globally Important Bird Area.

Access to the achingly beautiful wetlands is literally steps from Seven Eagles Resort. And you likely won’t run into a single other soul on the trails, at least not in the winter months. En route, it’s impossible not to miss the winding, asphalt trail stitched between the water and the resort. It’s a big deal, too, the proverbial starting line of the Great River Trail. 

Discovering the Midwest’s Great River Trail

The trail looks as if it’s disappearing into a forest abyss, and it essentially is. From this wetland canopy, one can bike (or hike) a southerly 62 miles, passing through scenic Mississippi River vistas and charming waterfront towns before reaching its endpoint in Moline. Among the greatest highlights of the trail are the bridge portion of the trail that ascended over the railroad tracks in Savanna, the De Immigrant Windmill in Fulton, and the Will B. Rollin bicycle statue in Port Byron. 

Even so, we aren’t in town for biking this time around, but instead we’re hot on the trails of a holly, jolly smalltown Christmas event.

Savanna Christmas Walk & Festival of Trees

For this twinkle in Santa’s eye, we wandered into downtown Savanna for a little shindig that zeroes in on the support local sentiment. This annual event, the Savanna Christmas Walk, opens up with a tree lighting ceremony, a Christmas parade, and the Festival of Trees before continuing into the evening with special hours and holiday-themed activities throughout Main Street.

Savanna Museum & Cultural Center

Perhaps the most eye-catching of it all is the Savanna Museum & Cultural Center with a dozen windows glistening with Christmas cheer. It’s the home of the Festival of Trees with over 50 decorated Christmas trees submitted by various businesses & individuals. We bumped through the aisles, voting cards in one hand, hot cocoa in the other – checking off our list of favorites.

NovelBloom

A few blocks down we were pulled into the merry and bright vibes of a bustling smalltown at NovelBloom. New as it may be, it’s clearly the place to see & be seen in Savanna. It oozes a certain kind of storybook nostalgia that makes you feel like you’ve already been visiting for a decade or two. Maybe it’s floor to ceiling bookshelves, or the plant shop blooming behind the coffee counter, or the cozy sofa perched in front of a big picture window. Whatever it is, it’s a must-see corner of historic Savanna.

Savanna Military Surplus

Somewhere halfway between the two, we moseyed beneath the neon signs of the Emporium, a military surplus store stuffed with a smorgasbord of memorabilia and refurbished treasures. A quirky discovery for small town Illinois, yet such an accurate representation of the proud Midwestern persona. Beyond the functional finds, there’s plenty of uniqueness to sift through, too, like badges and pins, knives, pens, and canteens. 

After an abundance of hot cocoa and candy canes, we returned to our cozy retreat, boots warming by the fire, and a pleasantly silent night at Seven Eagles.

Mississippi Palisades State Park 

Another dose of piercing winter sunlight nudged us out of our cabin suite the next morning, urging us to get out and explore a little more. A walk in the park beckoned, but just a quick jaunt mixed with a scenic drive sounded even better once the unforgiving Mississippi winds kissed our cheeks.

We headed 10 minutes up the road, north on 84 to explore Mississippi Palisades State Park. With the first few turns into the park it was hard to imagine what lay beyond, a series of tight, switchbacks leading us to the top of the bluffs. At the precipice, we were greeted by stop after stop of scenic overlooks, like links in a chain dangling over the Mississippi. 

Each overlook was more dazzling than the rest, and not a single one required more than a mile of effort. Just trail after trail of boardwalks leading to surreal balconies offering views of soaring eagles and the dazzling, icy river.

Sunshine Restaurant

Despite the low-effort miles, our tummies rumbled for a belated breakfast so we coasted our way back down the hill. In just a few moments, we poked back into the charms of Savanna in search of an old-timey diner. Sunshine Restaurant practically waved us in like a long-lost aunt. Sweet as pie people, plates bigger than your head, and all the charm one could hope for are poignant definitions for this place. And the food is just what we hoped for, too. Hearty, savory, and soul warming in the shape of burgers, waffles and hot cocoas.

Savanna Times Theater

But of the many, wonderful, enriching, and meaningful things one can do in Savanna, the very best of them all is time spent in an old-fashioned theater. Places like this simply do not exist anymore, and most of the living generations don’t have so much as a memory of one. This twin-theater is a true icon of the township, and has been running since 1942. However, despite its antiquity, there’s nothing dusty or musty about it. The Savanna Times Theater is surprisingly modern with current movies showing, a small concession, comfy chairs, and a very affordable experience.

Our Santa-inspired Illinois road trip wrapped up with some deep reflections on what makes a small town great. It can certainly be many things, but in my heart I believe it’s two distinct sentiments that resound over and over again, history and nature. Because when a place can figure out how and why those two things go together, they clearly have roots impossible to taint by commerce and crowds.

Thank you to Stephanie Frias with @familytravelnomads for visiting us! Follow Stephanie and her adventures on Instagram and Facebook

Written by Stephanie Frias

Stephanie is a family travel writer and photographer. Follow her adventures with @familytravelnomads on Instagram and Facebook.